A Coruña

This modern city with ancient roots is charming. It has a large working harbor, and appears to be financially strong, with lots of resources from the mountains and sea.

It appears to be enjoyed by local Galicians, however, in general, it is not tourist destination either for the Spanish or international travelers.

Before the Romans established their foothold (and parts of this foothold are still present in a 2,000 year-old lighthouse in town - below), A Coruna was a strong Celtic community, speaking Gallego (their native tongue) which is more closely related to Irish, and Scottish than English, Spanish, or Latin. It is quite different both linguistically and socially here from the rest of Spain (or rather Spain of the plains south of the Pyrenees, i.e. Spanish); most likely because it is a productive seaside territory isolated from Spain by vast mountain ranges that cover the eastern extents of the Iberian peninsula.  Because of this Galicia has a lot more more in common with Portugal, it's southern neighbor, than with Spain.

As in so many other places in Galicia, it marks the point of entry for pilgrims to Santiago de compostela from England and Ireland who come across the sea.

Santiago de compostela

I think we have been most impressed by the spontaneous mirth that seems present in Praza do Obradoiro, the huge square in front of St. James Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

As I write it is almost midnight and there are hundreds of people out in the plaza singing together at the top of their lungs, cheering one another on. Since we arrived two days ago it has been like this nonstop; last night after midnight when we went to sleep and still going wearily when we woke up. In addition, there is usually a bag piper playing all day and through the night. Galicia was originally settled by people from Scotland, Ireland and England. As we listen to the exuberance outside we share their joy but also feel very fortunate for the extremely thick walls of the parador. 

It is easy to understand.  These pilgrims have been walking the Camino usually between a month and several years. For instance, a few years ago we met a group of Germans who have for several years done a few hundred miles a year. Then they go home and come back the next year to continue their pilgrimage. We met them in southern France; they had started in Germany. In 2019 some 348,000 pilgrims, nearly 1,000 per day, officially finished their journeys at this site. The majority of them probably covered the distance from Leon, where all the major routes come together, to Santiago (192 miles). To receive the Compestela certificate one must complete a minimum of 100 km on a Camino route.  So yes, they are friends, and exuberant, and will celebrate for days until they finally tire.

It is truly an honor to stay at this Parador that forms one end of the plaza. From the terrace one can not only gaze at the beautiful St. James Cathedral, but also enjoy watching the pilgrims as they have reached their goal and finished the Camino. The Parador is a former hospital for the pilgrims, and has housed them since 1499 when it was first built.  There are four cloisters inside the parador, each one more beautiful than the previous one.  The Cathedral itself is much older, originally built in 898, with the current structure started in 1075 after the moors destroyed the original. The Cathedral has grown continuously since then as pilgrims, including kings, popes, lords and commoners add to its riches.  Indeed, at this point it is a little gaudy.

Barcelona

The ceiling arch dome of the Cathedral of Familia Sagrada (designed, and originally built by Gaudi) shows the organic structural detail that Gaudi put into everything he did.  In this case the normal cylindrical pillars (above) that hold up the roof are designed as trees which naturally carry a lot of weight.  The result is a light-weight, bright and airy building that is a pleasure to be in.  The photo below is all natural light.

Almost playfully Gaudi put this puzzle on the outer wall of the cathedral.